A Postcard from... Pondicherry, India

Greetings from Pondicherry!

I'm here on the southeastern coast of India, in the Dravidian heartland of Tamil Nadu. The monsoon is coming to an end and today I am home from school because of a government declared “rain day.” Pondicherry (aka Puducherry) is an old French seaport, and throughout the town are beautiful old relics of colonial architecture and charm. The culture here is an ancient and proud one; Tamil has been spoken and written for almost 3,000 years! 90% of the population is devout Hindus and strict vegetarians. This is the land of Krishna, Shiva, sadus in orange dhotis who are smeared in white chalk and temples of fire with a live elephant to bless you. The streets are always awash with women in colorful saris, majestic water buffalo rambling down the road and chai wallas selling sweet, spicy milk tea. The smell of fresh jasmine follows you around everywhere you go since most women wear a woven strand in their hair everyday. But don't be walking around with your head in the clouds—keep one eye on the road on the lookout for fresh cow droppings!

Kate and a very young Gandhi

I work at a private school called Primrose School, which has a very progressive view about education for India. I teach three classes of English everyday to 4-6th standards (ages 8-11), but I also teach music, art, photography, and yoga! It is certainly a diverse job and it keeps me quite busy. I love it so much! This week I am writing our mid-year English exam, starting a fancy paper mache puppet project, trying to teach three-part harmony, making “American salad” to go along with an English lesson, and finishing up our photography reviews as we get ready for the annual craft fair. The children are incredible-- sweet, naïve, playful, and smart the way children should be. When I'm on the noisy bus going home at 4:30, I'm smiling and full of joy, not burnt out and exhausted.

Even though my students are pretty fluent English speakers, I know my CELTA helped prepare me greatly for this job. This school is not a language institute; it is just a normal primary and secondary school. English is widely spoken in India therefore it does not have a market for English teachers like other Asian countries. This is so much the case that I almost gave up on my search for a job in India! Just when I was about to throw in the towel on India and take a job in Japan, I found a listing on the school's website for an English and Art teacher by doing one last random google search. It was like a beam of light coming down from the clouds on this little school called Primrose, and I knew this was the job I had been looking for. Even in a country like this where it may seem like an ESL job is nonexistent, if you are persistent and you believe it was meant to be, you will find your dream job. So don't give up!

Life is so simple here... I feel like I've gone back in time 30 years! As charming and peaceful as this is, it can also be challenging because I am used to life in the 21st century. Tamil Nadu is a pretty conservative place in a lot of ways. I rarely wear western clothes-- I wear a kurta (long tunic with sleeves) everyday, and once in a while I even wear a sari! The traffic rules are also nonexistent, so getting around the streets took some getting used to. Nonetheless, my neighbors are so warm and helpful to me and some of the teachers have become my good friends. I am the only Westerner in my neighborhood and at my school, other than the director who is an American who came to live here 35 years ago. Living here alone has been the challenge I knew it would be, but that is also why I came. However, the every day joys are the best part of my experience and it's taught me how to live a more simple and happy life. I've been here a little over six months and I am a changed person for the better. I'm looking forward to the next six months!

Namaste,

Kate Strassman, Teaching House Grad 2008

Kate's 6th grade students in Pondicherry